Malhotra, 59, became the fourth Indian designer after Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta and Vaishali S to join the official Paris calendar this week, considered the world’s fashion industry’s most elite platform.
The most famous European houses from Chanel to Christian Dior have long relied on Indian embroiderers and textile makers for their impressive, unique creations.
But Indian designers are now tapping homegrown artisans to challenge Parisian tastemakers in a business that traditionally served the royal family but now caters to celebrities and other VIPs from around the world.
Malhotra’s show reflected his deep connection with his mother, whom he lost just three months ago © Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP
“I think this was long overdue,” Malhotra told AFP a day after unveiling a very personal collection of tightly structured dresses in Paris – all a tribute to his recently deceased mother.
“India is very rich culturally in terms of textures and textiles, architecture, jewellery, embroidery. She has such a legacy of kings and queens.
“You know, I think it’s high time,” he added.
The French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion (FHCM) is actively diversifying the brands represented in Paris by inviting designers from outside Europe and the West.
Malhotra admitted he was nervous ahead of his first performance on Wednesday, which was titled “Maa” and reflected Malhotra’s deep connection with his mother, whom he lost just three months ago.
The French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion (FHCM) is diversifying the brands represented in Paris by inviting designers from outside Europe and the West © Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP
“There is nothing better than Paris Haute Couture. This is the perfect platform,” he said.
During preparation, “I kept coming back to my mother’s story, and at some point I said, ‘You know what, Paris doesn’t know me, and if they want to know me, they need to know how I feel right now,'” he explained.
“And to be honest, I’m still very sad about losing her.”
The first outfit was a dramatic long coat with sculptures of a boy and his mother at different stages of life, while another dress featured elaborate cutouts on the front of a mother and boy hugging as the model moved.
Born into a middle-class family in Mumbai, Malhotra began making suits for Bollywood before moving into couture and bridal wear.
The designer became a viral sensation after he arrived at this year’s Met Gala wearing a jacket and cape with sculpted and embroidered tributes to Mumbai © Angela Weiss/AFP
His decision to hold the show in Paris underscores his growing international ambitions: he has launched separate jewelery and cosmetics lines, as well as his first overseas boutique in Dubai in 2023.
He also became a viral sensation after he arrived at this year’s Met Gala wearing a jacket and cape with sculpted and embroidered tributes to Mumbai.
He has also dressed US superstars from Rihanna to Jennifer Lopez.
“After 35 years of work, what is my next challenge?” – he said.
“Maybe a studio in Paris, maybe a store in New York?”
© 2026 AFP